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Back Again on the La Sơn Expressway

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Riding a Familiar Road, Yet Never the Same

I’ve returned to this route dozens of times—sometimes solo, sometimes with friends. But among all those rides, one stands out in my memory: the day I pedaled through the La Sơn–Túy Loan expressway cutting across Bạch Mã National Park, right in the middle of its construction phase.

Back then, convoys of trucks crawled through clouds of red dust. A tiny ranger outpost stood forlorn beside the road—its low tin roof and wooden walls barely visible beneath the haze. Only the faded red flag flapping in the wind gave it life.


The First Cyclists on a Brand New Expressway

Three years ago, my friends and I revisited the La Sơn expressway when it was freshly paved and still closed to motor traffic. No cars, no noise—just us and the open road.

We decided, half-jokingly, to become the first cyclists to “inaugurate” the route.

From the edge of Bạch Mã forest, we rode straight through the quiet wilderness, past Khe Tre town in Nam Đông district, then followed the expressway all the way to the La Sơn T-junction. After a break and a simple lunch, we continued down National Highway 1A, over Hải Vân Pass, and back to Đà Nẵng.

When I got home, I wrote a blog post titled “Cycling the La Sơn Expressway”, which began with this rather grand opening:

“The La Sơn – Túy Loan Expressway, dubbed the ‘train through the mountains,’ is nearing completion. The smooth, paved road cuts straight through the lush Bạch Mã National Park. Before it officially joins the North–South expressway, take this rare chance to explore it by bike—it’s an unforgettable experience.”


Yesterday’s Ride, Today’s Return

And then, just yesterday—I went back again. And today, well… here I am once more.

What can I say? When you’re smitten, you’re smitten.

Alone on the silent expressway, I stopped to rest. I sipped hot tea from a flask, nibbled some fruit and snacks I’d packed, and gazed out at the road winding alongside the Cu Đê River. It snaked through eucalyptus groves, acacia forests, lush alluvial plains, golden rice fields, vast stretches of sugarcane, and endless rows of corn.

And then there it was—the dramatic curve of the expressway disappearing into the pine forests of Bạch Mã National Park. Majestic. Breathtaking.

My heart felt light. There are no words for that kind of joy.

—–

Mr. Old Man, January 2022

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