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Cycling Back to the Ancient Banyan Tree

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This morning, I took on the climb up Sơn Trà to test my mountain biking legs — part of my plan to requalify for my long-expired Class FE cycling license (*). Along the way, I made a nostalgic stop at the old Tiên Sa Lighthouse, still standing proud above the sea.

I also dropped by the legendary Cây Đa Ngàn Năm — the Ancient Banyan Tree, also known as the Heritage Banyan Tree. It’s one of those must-visit check-in spots for anyone exploring the Sơn Trà Nature Reserve, and a real badge of honor for mountain bikers who enjoy punishing climbs and breathtaking scenery.

The trail there winds through groves of other ancient banyans, some several centuries old, but the real giant awaits at the southeastern tip of the peninsula. This one is officially recognized by the Vietnam Association for Conservation of Nature and Environment as a Heritage Tree, believed to be more than 800 years old.

It stands over 20 meters tall, with a sprawling canopy that spreads out like a giant green umbrella. The trunk measures a solid 10 meters around, and 26 thick aerial roots anchor deep into the ground, twisting and reaching like the arms of an ancient guardian. It’s massive, wild, and strangely elegant — a living sculpture shaped by time and nature.

Though it’s only 22 kilometers from downtown Đà Nẵng, the ride there is no casual cruise. With gradients pushing 17 to 20%, it’s a real test of grit for anyone not used to serious mountain climbs. But standing under that tree, with nothing but the rustling leaves and distant ocean breeze, I felt small — and completely alive.

Mr. Old Man, 11/2021

(*) FE is Vietnam’s highest class of driving license — though in this case, I like to think of it as “Full-Endurance” certification for mountain biking!

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