Articles Discovery on the cycling road Lifestyle Mr Old Man The One-of-a-Kind Bà Rén Pig Market By Mr Old Man Posted on 7 days ago 8 min read 0 0 30 Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on Google+ Share on Reddit Share on Pinterest Share on Linkedin Share on Tumblr The seller and the buyer were close friends so the transaction took place very quickly | Photos by Mr. Old Man A Market Like No Other For over 50 years, in a small commune in Quảng Nam province, a market unlike any other has thrived. The Bà Rén Pig Market, located in Quế Xuân 1 commune, Quế Sơn district, is famous for trading only one thing—piglets. But its uniqueness doesn’t stop there. It’s also the birthplace of an equally rare and gritty profession: pig carrying. “Piglets of all breeds arrive by motorbike baskets from nearby villages—ready for the morning trade.” A Ride to Remember Curious to see it with our own eyes, two friends and I pedaled 40 kilometers from Đà Nẵng last Saturday. But we were met with silence—the market was closed. Locals explained that it takes a break on the first and fifteenth days of the lunar month, and only runs between 6:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m. on other days. Bà Rén pig market is deserted on the 1st day and 15th day of the lunar month Determined not to miss it, we returned the following Saturday—and finally, the scene came to life. Morning Chatter and Piglet Squeals Ai về Bà Rén ghé chợ heoBắt mắt, vui tai chuyện tầm phèoHeo ré, người xung quanh bao chuyệnTrưa tan buổi chợ đã lèo nhèo “If you ever visit Bà Rén, stop by the pig market A feast for the eyes, and gossip for the ears Piglets squeal, people chatter By noon, the crowd starts to scatter” The verse captures it well. By 6 a.m., the market is abuzz. Old motorbikes rumble in, stacked with baskets full of piglets. There are no stalls. Buyers and sellers crowd around the animals, bartering in hushed urgency. For outsiders, it’s hard to tell who’s selling and who’s buying—everything is done quickly, mostly among familiar faces. And when deals are struck, that’s where the pig carriers come in. “There are no stalls—just piglets, baskets, and a blur of fast deals in the early light.” When Piglets Escape, The Chase Begins Despite the market’s calm, moments of chaos break out when a stubborn piglet escapes a carrier’s grasp. Suddenly, the entire market comes alive—pig carriers and owners dart in pursuit. One grabs an ear, another a hind leg, as the piglet squeals in protest. “That’s when the market truly becomes the pig market,” someone jokes. A Dying Trade? According to Mr. Phạm Cư, head of the market’s management board: “Years ago, the market sold thousands of piglets a day. But since COVID-19, the crowd has thinned. The market still runs, but it’s not what it used to be.” The Women Behind the Piglets Among the six women who now work as pig carriers, Mrs. Trần Thị Thảo (58) and her sister Mrs. Trần Thị Nguyên (53) are the most experienced—both with over 30 years in the trade. Born in the North but raised in Quế Sơn, they still speak with a strong Northern accent. “When we moved here, we had nothing,” Thảo recalls. “I started helping traders at the market—carrying and weighing pigs. Over time, it became my job.” She was the first pig carrier at Bà Rén. As demand grew, she invited her sister to join. Today, the market supports six such women. “Mrs. Thảo and Mrs. Nguyên—two sisters who’ve carried piglets at Bà Rén for over three decades.” Hard Work, Modest Pay Pig carrying is grueling and dirty, and the pay is modest at best. In the market’s heyday, a carrier might move up to 100 piglets in one morning and earn around 100,000 VND (~$4 USD). Now, they’re lucky to make 20,000 VND per session. This Saturday, the market was slightly more active than usual. But with only a few dozen piglets on offer, the carriers took turns—each lifting just a few pigs to share what little income was available. Last But Not Least There’s a saying: To understand the soul of a place, visit its local market. And today, after cycling to Quế Sơn and standing amidst the baskets, the squeals, and the laughter, I can say I’ve witnessed Vietnam’s most unique market. Even more memorable were the women of Bà Rén—who, for over half their lives, have carried not just pigs, but the legacy of a community, a culture, and a disappearing way of life. Mr. Old Man, 4/2021