ENJOYING TẾT IN TÂY GIANG*

ENJOYING TẾT IN TÂY GIANG*

On Tet morning, I woke up beside a long-extinguished stove, and through the window, darkness still reigned except for a faint light from the small electric lamp atop the flagpole at Pơloong Plênh’s house. The incessant chorus of croaking frogs filled the air. Last night, two of my companions had been drinking with some Cơtu girls, and though each lay sleeping in a corner, I roused them so that we could join Pơloong Plênh in climbing to the Quế Peak to chase clouds.

Chasing Clouds at Quế Peak

Quế Peak, at an altitude of 1,369 meters above sea level, is regarded as the most beautiful mountain in Quảng Nam. Today, as we rode through winding mountain roads blanketed in drifting white clouds and biting cold winds, I sat behind my Suzuki GZ150 climbing the steep, twisting slopes. Pơloong Plênh recalled how, in the old days before any road existed, residents of the border villages Axan, Tr’Hy, Ch’Ơm, and Gary had to trek for days through the forest to reach the district center of Hiên (now Đông Giang). Over 30 years ago, when the state decided to open roads to the mountain communities of Trường Sơn, the village elder Clâu Bhlao—a Cơtu native of Tr’Hy—helped shorten the journey from three days to one by retracing his own footsteps (marked by a wounded deer) and mobilizing villagers to clear the forest. This legendary feat paved the way for local children, including Pơloong Plênh himself, to pursue education and eventually serve as local officials.

Departing while the Cơtu household stove had yet to be lit and with no houses or people in sight, we reached Quế Peak in nearly an hour of fast riding before sunrise. Everything was shrouded in a thick, billowing mist, as if one could almost touch the clouds. I imagined it would be an unforgettable experience to have stayed at Quế Peak the previous evening—to watch a mountain sunset, to gather around a campfire, to enjoy roasted meat in true Cơtu style, and to finish a bottle of Macallan 21 before drifting off amid the clouds. Instead, we snapped a few commemorative photos and then continued our descent to Voòng hamlet, about 5 km from the peak.

Impressions of Voòng hamlet

After 25 km of steep mountain passes, I had assumed that no ethnic group could live year-round amid the cold, cloud-covered Trường Sơn. Yet, in the deep mountains near the Lao border, four Cơtu villages—Axan, Tr’Hy, Ch’Ơm, and Gary—thrive. As our vehicle thundered down a long slope, we caught a glimpse of Thôn Voòng on a hilltop in Tr’Hy bathed in the morning sun, with a scattering of blue tin roofs, while distant mountains melted into streams of white clouds.

The road into Voòng hamlet glows in the morning sun; a few elderly residents sit outside, smiling warmly at the passing strangers. I was deeply impressed by the village’s immaculate order and cleanliness—no litter to be seen. I even witnessed a young child, after receiving lucky money, carrying his red envelope to a nearby bin about 20 meters away, clearly instilling an early sense of environmental responsibility. I met Bhling Minh, Vice Chairman of Tr’Hy commune, in his newly built wooden house. Proudly, he noted, “The Cơtu people in Tây Giang are changing; their lifestyle and habits are evolving positively towards modernity.”

Warm Hospitality and Entrepreneurial Spirit

The genuine hospitality of the Cơtu people in Tây Giang is evident in their warm, welcoming manner. From Pơr’Ning to Voòng, we were invited to share meals of bamboo rice, drink local brews, and taste exotic dishes featuring wild boar, forest pig, muntjac, and even whole frog specialties. Though some dishes looked unusual, the hosts’ heartfelt hospitality made the experience delightful.

At a café at the entrance of Tr’Hy commune, I met the young owner, Bhling Miêng, who treated us to smoked squirrel and dried beef while enjoying La Rue beer. Learning that we were visiting from Da Nang, he invited us to visit his homestay project on Quế Peak, seeking our advice on attracting guests. It was inspiring to see a young Cơtu entrepreneur eager to start up and build a prosperous tourism business.

Looking Forward to Returning

This is my second Tết in Tây Giang. Last year, I spent an entire day cycling to Pơr’Ning hamlet and back, leaving little time for deeper exchanges with the locals. This year, riding a motorcycle allowed me to savor more time atop Quế Peak, celebrate Tết with the Cơtu people in Pơr’Ning hamlet and Voòng hamlet, and—of course—bring along plenty of lucky money for the children. Although I planned to visit Axan, circumstances postponed that trip by another 20 km. For now, I promise to return—perhaps in March—to participate in the district-wide two-day Cơtu cultural festival held amid the vast forests of Pơ-mu. What an enticing prospect!

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Mr. Old Man, February 2018

• Tết – Vietnamese New Year Festival