NAM Ô FORBIDDEN FOREST & THE LEGEND OF PRINCESS HUYỀN TRÂN

On the north-south highway, when descending the Hải Vân Pass towards the south, travelers can spot a small forest surrounded by golden-brown rocky cliffs glistening under the sun. From one angle, the forest resembles a phoenix spreading its wings over the sea; from another, it looks like an ancient, million-year-old turtle. This is the Nam Ô Forbidden Forest, steeped in mystical tales of sacred woods and the vast ocean, including the legend of Princess Huyền Trân.

The Legend of Huyền Trân Princess

According to folklore from the Nam Ô fishing village, Princess Huyền Trân was married off to the King of Champa, Chế Mân, in exchange for the lands of Ô and Lý. However, less than a year later, Chế Mân passed away. Fearing that Princess Huyền Trân would be burned alive on his funeral pyre, as was the custom of the Cham people, King Trần Anh Tông sent Trần Khắc Chung with an army to rescue her from the capital city of Champa, Đồ Bàn.

After paying respects to the late king, Trần Khắc Chung requested permission for the princess to perform a final farewell ritual by the sea before ascending the pyre. Seizing this opportunity, she was taken aboard a ship to escape. While fleeing towards Đại Việt, their vessel encountered a violent storm near Nam Ô, forcing them to take refuge in the Nam Ô Forbidden Forest. Eventually, Trần Khắc Chung continued the journey with Princess Huyền Trân, while one of his commanders and several soldiers stayed behind to delay the pursuing Cham forces.

Today, near the seaside at the foot of the Nam Ô Forbidden Forest, there lies an old grave. The fishermen of Nam Ô believe it belongs to the Trần Dynasty commander who sacrificed himself and regard him as their “Tiền Hiền Triệu Cơ”—a founding ancestor who helped establish their village.

The grave of the founding ancestor who helped establish the village.

Tracing the Ancient Ruins

As Vietnamese settlers moved southward and established the Nam Ô fishing village, they built a shrine dedicated to Princess Huyền Trân, known as the “Huyền Trân Princess Votive Shrine.” Over time, the shrine fell into ruin and is now hidden within the dense Nam Ô Forbidden Forest, known only to a few local historians.

Intrigued by the legendary tales of Nam Ô and its sacred forest, I set out alone yesterday, determined to locate both the shrine and the grave of the fallen Trần Dynasty commander. According to historical records, the shrine was said to be near the southern edge of the forest, close to Mỏm Hạc , a rocky cape shaped like a crane’s beak extending into the sea. It took me three attempts, wandering through the forest, before I finally discovered it.

The experience felt almost spiritual. Just as I was about to give up, I suddenly noticed a large stone stele, resembling the decorative screens often found in ancient Hue garden houses, standing hidden among dense foliage, less than three meters from a path leading to Hạc Point. Overcome with emotion, I stood in solitude in the silent forest, clasped my hands together, and offered a prayer of gratitude to Princess Huyền Trân for allowing me the honor of witnessing her votive shrine.

My joy was doubled because earlier, while walking along the seaside path on the opposite side of the forest, I had also discovered a large grave inscribed with the words “Tiền Hiền Chi Mộ” (The Grave of the Founding Ancestor). Initially, I didn’t associate it with the Trần Dynasty commander, but after cross-referencing historical accounts, I realized that this was indeed believed to be his final resting place—the burial site of the brave warrior who had sacrificed himself to protect Princess Huyền Trân from the Cham forces.

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Mr. Old Man, 11/2021