CYCLING TO GÒ NỔI

Returning to the Homeland of Gò Nổi

The New Land Has Finally Turned Green (*)

Last Sunday, while cycling to Duy Vinh, I checked in at the Do Do village featured in Nguyễn Nhật Ánh’s Mắt Biếc when, passing by Cau Lau Bridge, I caught sight of Gò Nổi in the middle of the Thu Bồn River. That image made me think that next Sunday I’d have to visit this little green island.

This morning, a group of us from the Da Nang cycling crew set off for Gò Nổi. It was a light ride on a relaxed Sunday—Gò Nổi is less than 35 km from Da Nang via a smooth, asphalted coastal road, with no steep hills to climb. Riding along National Highway 1A, after passing the old Cau Lau Bridge for about 1 km, we turned right onto Road 610B. After another 3 km, we reached the Gò Nổi Bridge (also known as the Black Bridge) spanning the Thu Bồn River. On one side of the bridge lies Duy Xuyen District, and on the other is Ha An village, Dien Phong Commune, Dien Ban District—where a rural road leads out onto Gò Nổi Island.

Gò Nổi was once known as a land of five precious virtues—a place of spiritual and cultural eminence in Quảng Nam—comprising the three island communes of Dien Phong, Dien Quang, and Dien Trung in Dien Ban District. This land has produced many illustrious figures and patriots, such as Hoàng Diệu, Phạm Phú Thứ, Trần Cao Vân, Nguyễn Thị Bình, and Hoàng Tụy.

Today, however, Gò Nổi stands out as a model of new rural living, embracing a civilized way of life. It was surprising to see that all the village roads here have been fully paved, with street names designated by numbers and houses marked with meticulously detailed address plaques indicating the house number, street, village, and commune. One might wonder if the person who devised this naming and numbering system had ever been to New York—because the method here bears a striking resemblance to the organized grid layout of streets in New York, with avenues and numbered streets running incrementally from east to west or south to north, making navigation exceptionally easy.

The road leading to Gò Nổi Island is Road No. 10 of Ha An village. Cycling along Road No. 10 for about 500 meters, you then turn left near the end of Road No. 9 at a three-way junction, and turning right straight ahead takes you out onto the island road. Gò Nổi lies in the middle of the river, devoid of houses, with only stretches of freshly green corn, peanut, mung bean, and chili fields, along with vegetable plots coming into bloom. Cycling along the riverside path in the morning—past newly planted peanut and corn fields—felt exhilarating, as if leaving behind the clamor of urban life to immerse oneself in the lush, verdant scent of nature, the earthy aroma of the soil, and the nostalgic fragrance of my childhood countryside.

When we set off from Da Nang early this morning, it was drizzling, and I thought we wouldn’t get any beautiful shots. Fortunately, upon reaching Gò Nổi, the sun began to shine brightly, the sky turned a deep blue, and white clouds adorned the heavens. As usual, I was delighted to collect plenty of photos capturing our footprints in the countryside of Gò Nổi. I’m determined that, one day, I will return to this little green island at the earliest opportunity.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST

Gò Nổi in general—and Gò Nổi Island in particular—retains an untouched beauty, seemingly marked by few visitors. I believe that the tourism sector in Quảng Nam and Dien Ban should tap into Gò Nổi’s potential, transforming it into an eco-tourism destination that can help local farmers boost their incomes. Imagine starting with river tours that ferry visitors from Hội An along the Thu Bồn River to Gò Nổi, coupled with organized road tours and cycling trips to explore the serene and stunning countryside.

(*) Lyrics from “Thương em chín đợi mười chờ” by Minh Đức