CHECKING IN AT ĐO ĐO MARKET

From dreamy fiction to countryside reality

By Mr. Old Man

Last week, Dreamy Eyes (Mắt biếc)—the latest film by director Victor Vũ—sparked a wave of nostalgia and curiosity among young viewers. Adapted from Nguyễn Nhật Ánh’s beloved novel, the film takes place in the fictional village of Đo Đo, also the author’s real-life hometown, and the setting for the childhood of the main characters, Ngạn and Hà Lan.

Sometimes, I get a little carried away with this youthful spirit. Whenever I hear of a place that’s scenic or unique, I feel the urge to hop on my bike and go see it for myself. So today, I pedaled out to Bình Quế to check out the real Đo Đo Market.

Once there, I learned that the market featured in the Dreamy Eyes movie wasn’t actually Đo Đo Market in Bình Quế, but rather Tây Giang Market in Bình Sa. Still, I wasn’t disappointed. I had made it to the market from Nguyễn Nhật Ánh’s novel, where Ngạn and Hà Lan once wandered under the shade of the almond tree, and I got to cycle through the peaceful countryside of Thăng Bình—with its railroad tracks, quiet roads, and soul-soothing scenery.

Today’s Đo Đo Market may be neater and more modern than in the novel, but it still retains its rustic charm. The big almond tree is still there, shading a corner of the market. All that’s missing are the shirtless medicine peddlers performing odd tricks for a crowd.

After leaving the market, I asked for directions to the sim (rose myrtle) forest, where Ngạn and Hà Lan—and later Trà Long—once picked sim berries in the novel. Sadly, the forest is long gone. I did, however, find a small stream, likely the very one referred to as Suối Lá in Ngạn’s romantic memories, and the nearby Đông Mỹ Dam.

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An Unexpected Twist in Đo Đo

And here’s where the story takes a sweet turn: while taking photos at the market, I happened to meet Khánh Nhi—a girl from Đo Đo village, and as it turns out, a distant relative of the author Nguyễn Nhật Ánh.

Believe me when I say this: Khánh Nhi is every bit as charming and graceful as Hà Lan in Dreamy Eyes. A quick scroll through her Facebook profile revealed an impressive list of literary accomplishments. It made me wonder: are all girls from Đo Đo this beautiful and gifted with words?

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Mr. Old Man, December 2019