BACK TO GÒ NỔI AGAIN

By Mr. Old Man

It’s been just over a month, and yet I’ve found myself back in Gò Nổi for the third time — each visit with a few good friends and a fresh sense of curiosity. This time, the plan was to head straight out to the “cow prairie” in Điện Quang, but the weather had its own ideas. At 7 a.m., the whole area was still wrapped in a thick fog, so we lingered a little longer than planned — first over a steaming bowl of beef bone noodle soup (bún xương) at Bảy Lép’s roadside stall, then dragging our feet at a small café in Hà An village, waiting for the mist to lift.

This ride had another purpose too. I’d been meaning to visit the memorial and grave of Governor – General Hoàng Diệu — a national hero. We’d passed it on a previous ride but didn’t stop, and that’s been weighing on my mind ever since.

According to historical records, Hoàng Diệu (1829–1882) was born in Xuân Đài Village, Điện Quang Commune, Điện Bàn District, Quảng Nam Province. He passed the Associate Doctor exam (Phó bảng) in 1853 (under Emperor Tự Đức) and served in various provinces — Bình Định, Thanh Hóa, Bắc Giang — earning a reputation as an incorruptible and devoted mandarin, loyal to both country and people. In 1880, he was appointed Governor-General of Hà Ninh. On April 25, 1882, in the final stand to defend Hanoi Citadel from the invading French, Governor Hoàng Diệu chose to end his life rather than surrender, hanging himself to preserve his honor and patriotism.

The memorial house built in his honor sits on an 800-square-meter plot facing the fields. At the entrance stands a 300kg bronze bust of the man himself, flanked by two replicas of cannons from Emperor Tự Đức’s era — a tribute to the final battle. There’s also a two-ton stone stele inscribed with the story of his life, legacy, and sacrifice. His actual grave is not far off, nestled in the middle of Xuân Đài’s rice fields. The small path leading to it is bordered by green rice paddies and neatly planted rows of corn — humble, peaceful surroundings for a man of great dignity.

After paying our respects and taking a few group photos at the memorial and the grave, we followed a dirt path out to the grassy plains by the Thu Bồn River, where hundreds of cows grazed freely on the fertile riverbanks. The weather, though, had a temper today — from heavy morning fog to a sudden, blazing sun that sent the cowherds scrambling to guide their animals back into the shade.

We’d hoped to explore the full stretch of the riverside meadow, but the heat had other plans. So we turned our bikes back, heading for Mr. Đốc ferry pier to catch the ferry across the Thu Bồn River to Đại Hòa, Đại Lộc, and from there, back to Đà Nẵng.

The ferry lady recognized us from previous trips and greeted us with that familiar countryside warmth. A few factory girls from Điện Quang were heading home to Điện Hồng, laughing and chatting as they hopped on board. One even pulled down her face scarf and gave a cheerful wave when I filmed the scene — a bright, unfiltered moment from a simple, beautiful day in Gò Nổi.

And just like that, I knew I’d be back again. Maybe not for the cows. But definitely for the peace.

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Mr. Old Man