TRÚC LÂM BẠCH MÃ ZEN MONASTERY – A CELESTIAL HAVEN

Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã Zen Monastery is perched atop Linh Sơn Mountain, nestled within the tranquil waters of Tỉnh Giác Lake in Truồi, located in Lộc Hòa Commune, Phú Lộc District, Thừa Thiên Huế Province. It is the first Zen monastery in Central Vietnam, founded and developed by Zen Master Thích Thanh Từ, the head of the Trúc Lâm Zen sect in Vietnam.

With its auspicious geographical position—embracing the principles of “mountains embracing water,” “dragons and tigers guarding,” and “water protecting, mountains surrounding”—the monastery stands with Trì Giang River reflecting its image in the front and the majestic Bạch Mã Range as its backdrop. Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã Zen Monastery is not only a renowned spiritual retreat but also a must-visit attraction for travelers to Huế, especially for Buddhist pilgrims seeking to connect with the Trúc Lâm Yên Tử Zen tradition.

As an avid cyclist and explorer, I have attempted three times to visit Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã Zen Monastery. However, on all three occasions, I could only admire the monastery and the grand statue of Buddha Shakyamuni from afar, standing at the shores of Tỉnh Giác Lake, snapping a few photos before leaving in regret. The reason, simply put, was the COVID-19 pandemic. Perhaps, it was not yet my destined time to visit this sacred land.

There is an old saying: “Three times without success, give it up.” But I was determined to try again. On my fourth attempt, I finally set foot on the sacred grounds, climbing 172 stone steps leading to the triple-arched entrance gate, marking the beginning of my spiritual journey and exploration of the monastery’s architectural wonders. These structures, deeply imbued with Buddhist philosophy, are harmoniously integrated into the breathtaking Linh Sơn peak of the Bạch Mã Range.

The monastery is divided into three main areas: the Outer Courtyard, the Monks’ Quarters, and the Nuns’ Quarters. The Outer Courtyard houses the Đại Hùng Hall, where the statue of the Buddha meditating under the Bodhi tree is enshrined. Behind the main hall is the shrine dedicated to Patriarch Bodhidharma, the founder of the Trúc Lâm Zen sect. The Monks’ Quarters serve as a residence for male monks and male lay practitioners who come for meditation retreats, while the Nuns’ Quarters accommodate female monks and female lay practitioners for spiritual practice.

Standing on the veranda of Đại Hùng Bảo Điện (Great Hero’s Treasure Hall), gazing at the monastery veiled in the mystical beauty of lush mountains and serene waters, surrounded by the vast sky, I momentarily felt as if he had stepped into a celestial paradise, immersed in absolute peace and tranquility.

A visit to Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã Zen Monastery would be incomplete without paying homage to the Grand Buddha Statue of Shakyamuni, towering 25.5 meters high, covering an area of nearly 800 square meters of stone, and weighing 1,500 tons. The statue stands on an island adjacent to Linh Sơn and is accessible via a stone bridge poetically named “Crossing to Enlightenment” (Đồng Lên Bờ Giác).

Crossing the “Crossing to Enlightenment” bridge and following a winding forest path under the lush canopy for about ten minutes, I finally beheld the grandeur and intricate beauty of the statue.

According to an inscription handwritten by Bhikkhu Thích Tâm Hạnh, construction of the Grand Buddha Statue began in the winter of the Đinh Hợi year (2007) and was only completed in the winter of Kỷ Sửu (2009). The statue is sculpted in the classic “Holding the Lotus and Smiling” posture of Zen Buddhism, depicting Shakyamuni Buddha seated in full lotus position on a vajra throne, gently raising a lotus flower in his hand to impart wisdom to the assembly.

Standing solemnly on a lush, tree-covered island in the midst of Tỉnh Giác Lake, Buddha Shakyamuni sits in serene majesty, holding a fully bloomed lotus, symbolizing enlightenment and transcendence.

After four cycling journeys covering nearly 600 kilometers in total, my long-cherished wish finally came true—witnessing and fully experiencing the ethereal beauty of Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã Zen Monastery.

On the way back, I couldn’t help but wonder: Will there be a fifth or sixth journey to visit this sacred site?

Why not?

—

Mr. Old Man, 4/2021

(*) “Crossing to Enlightenment” symbolizes the Buddhist path that guides sentient beings from the dark abyss of ignorance to the shore of enlightenment.