CYCLING TO VISIT TRA KIEU PARISH

It was a beautiful day when I set out on an 80 km cycling trip to visit Tra Kieu Parish, one of the oldest parishes in the Vietnamese Catholic Church, established around 1630, shortly after Hoi An Parish.

Located 40 km southwest of Da Nang, Tra Kieu Parish, also known as the Tra Kieu Marian Center, is an important pilgrimage site. From National Highway 1A, travelers can take a turn at Nam Phuoc town (Duy Xuyen district, Quang Nam province) and follow Provincial Road 610 for about 7 km to reach this sacred church.

Tra Kieu Church, situated in Kieu Chau village, Duy Son commune, Duy Xuyen district, is a stunning piece of classical European architecture. Originally built in 1772 at another location, it was relocated to its current site in 1865. The two-story structure features a sanctuary on the upper level and a community space below.

Surrounded by ancient trees, the church exudes a sense of peace and antiquity. Nearby lies a cemetery where Bishop Peter Mary Pham Ngoc Chi, the first bishop of Da Nang Diocese, and former parish priests rest in eternal peace.

A remarkable feature of the church is an inscription on the front wall that reads:

“Here, the Virgin Mary appeared (September 10 & 11, 1885).”

Legend has it that in 1885, during the Can Vuong Movement, the Van Than rebels attacked Tra Kieu Parish, aiming to destroy the church. Cannons were set up on Kim Son and Buu Chau hills to bombard the church, but strangely, no cannonballs ever hit their target. The commanding officer later confessed that every time he aimed, he saw a beautiful woman in white standing atop the church, making it impossible for him to fire. For the parishioners, this was a miraculous intervention by Our Lady. On September 21, 1885, the Catholics successfully reclaimed the enemy’s stronghold on Buu Chau Hill, lifting the siege on Tra Kieu.

To commemorate this miracle, in 1898, the parishioners built the Tra Kieu Marian Center on Buu Chau Hill. One of its mysteries is the well on the hilltop, where the water level always remains within arm’s reach.

Each year, on May 31, the Diocese of Da Nang hosts the Tra Kieu Marian Congress, drawing thousands of pilgrims nationwide to this sacred site.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST

The Diocese of Da Nang consists of five deaneries: Da Nang, Hoa Vang, Hoi An, Tam Ky, and Tra Kieu, comprising 51 parishes and 3 sub-parishes. I have cycled to 32 parish churches and 2 sub-parish churches, but my journey to the remaining ones in Quang Nam was postponed due to Covid-19 travel restrictions.

That day, as I arrived at Tra Kieu, it was a weekday during the pandemic. Inside the vast church, only a few elderly people were seen praying. Outside, a group of parishioners was busy decorating for Christmas 2021. If I had arrived a few days later, I might have witnessed the vibrant holiday spirit—despite the lingering shadow of Covid-19.

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Mr. Old Man, 12/2021