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Exploring Ky Anh Tunnels by Bicycle: A Journey Through History

By Mr Old Man

Posted on 2 days ago

8 min read

Just 7 kilometers northeast of Tam Ky City and about 75 kilometers from Da Nang via the coastal route lies one of Vietnam’s lesser-known but profoundly significant historical landmarks: the Ky Anh Tunnels. Once part of Ky Anh Commune (now Tam Thang Commune), this site ranks among the three largest tunnel networks in Vietnam, alongside the famous Cu Chi Tunnels in Ho Chi Minh City and Vinh Moc Tunnels in Quang Tri. Yet unlike its counterparts, Ky Anh remains relatively undiscovered—an untouched chapter of Vietnam’s heroic past.

A Meaningful New Year’s Ride

On the final Sunday of 2020, while cycling to visit the Monument of Vietnamese Heroic Mother Nguyễn Thị Thứ in Tam Ky, we stumbled upon a sign pointing to Ky Anh Tunnels. Although we couldn’t stop that day, the idea lingered. We promised ourselves to return—and what better way to kick off 2021 than honoring that promise?

Monument of Heroic Mother Nguyen Thi Thu – She received death notices nine times for her sons who sacrificed for the cause of national liberation and reunification

So, on January 2nd, under chilly skies and persistent drizzle, we set off from Da Nang by bicycle. Though the tunnels were officially closed due to the pandemic, fate smiled on us. We met Mr. Huỳnh Kim Ta, a 67-year-old caretaker who grew up in the area and lived through the war years. Thanks to his warm welcome and deep knowledge, we gained rare access to explore the tunnel system and hear firsthand stories of resilience and sacrifice.

Inside the Underground Fortress

At the entrance exhibit room, Mr. Huỳnh recounted how, between 1964 and 1975, local Party members and villagers in Ky Anh secretly built a vast maze of tunnels beneath Thach Tan and Vinh Binh villages. Narrow and low—only 0.8–1 meter wide and 1.2–1.5 meters high—the interconnected network served as both a shelter and a base for launching guerrilla attacks.

Despite the rainy season flooding parts of the tunnel, we didn’t hesitate to crawl inside. It was humbling to experience even a glimpse of what the villagers endured for years, guided by their unshakable motto: “Not an inch lost, not a step back.” These tunnels weren’t just a hideout—they were a lifeline, a symbol of the people’s unwavering resistance.

Faces of Courage

As we explored, Mr. Huỳnh shared more powerful statistics: Thach Tan village, during the war, had only 140 households but lost 203 lives and was home to 59 Heroic Mothers. Across Ky Anh Commune, the numbers rose to 1,252 martyrs and 300 Heroic Mothers—a staggering tribute to the community’s sacrifices.

A poignant moment came when we visited Ông Tân’s Bunker, where we unexpectedly met Mother Nguyễn Thị Bồng (81), his daughter. She now lives in a house funded by Vietcombank in 2007, built atop her father’s land. Two tunnel entrances still remain there, preserving history quite literally beneath her feet.

We also visited the homes of former female guerrilla fighters, now approaching 70, who are working hard to revive the traditional mat-weaving craft of Thach Tan. Their vibrant, handwoven mats are still sold across Quang Nam—threads of history woven into modern life.

Stories Beneath the Surface

One of the most fascinating tales came from the ancient village well. Made of laterite and nearly two meters wide, it once doubled as a secret communication channel. Mr. Huỳnh demonstrated the method: three bucket drops warned of incoming enemy troops; two meant they had retreated. The sound of the bucket striking water signaled those inside the tunnel to prepare or relax—simple, ingenious, effective.

Nearby stands a massive rỏi tree, over 500 years old, said to date back to the first settlers from Thanh Hoa who followed Lord Nguyễn to Quang Nam. Its towering trunk once served as a natural lookout post. Today, it symbolizes the unyielding strength of Ky Anh’s people—its very name, rỏi, is synonymous with resilience.

A Ride to Remember

Cycling nearly 150 kilometers in cold rain might sound daunting, but it was a journey filled with meaning. We didn’t just visit a war site—we witnessed a living history of courage, creativity, and sacrifice. The Ky Anh Tunnels may not yet be on every tourist map, but they are without doubt a national treasure, echoing with stories that deserve to be remembered and shared.