BACK TO RÚ CẤM NAM Ô & the Legend of Princess Huyền Trân

There are mornings when the weather’s just too nice to stay indoors. So I hopped on my bike, stretched my aging but loyal legs, and set off on a spontaneous ride—back to Rú Cấm Nam Ô, that mysterious stretch of forest that’s been quietly guarding its secrets for centuries.

Rú Cấm Nam Ô, for those unfamiliar, is a sacred forbidden forest located on the outskirts of Nam Ô, Da Nang. Even today, locals still tread lightly around it, carrying with them a quiet reverence—and maybe a hint of superstition. It’s not just a forest; it’s a place wrapped in spiritual mystery.

A Return Ride with a Twist

Curiosity (and caffeine) got the better of me this morning, so I pedaled back into Rú Cấm Nam Ô to revisit the Votive Temple of Princess Huyền Trân. And lo and behold—things had changed!

Last time, it took quite the effort to even locate the shrine. It was hidden deep within dense foliage, abandoned, almost forgotten. But today, someone had cleared the surrounding brush. A large stone stele dedicated to Princess Huyền Trân now stands openly, facing north. I can’t help but wonder—was it coincidence, or did my earlier visit spark something?

With a few humble offerings (some fruit I brought and incense someone else had left behind), I lit a few sticks and bowed before the stele, quietly giving thanks for the luck and honor of witnessing this sacred space once again.

A Second Stop: Temple of Lady Liễu Hạnh

On my way back, I swung by a newly restored temple in Nam Ô village, one that’s just been renovated by the city and is about to be officially inaugurated: the Temple of Lady Liễu Hạnh. At its entrance is a small stone plaque that reads:

Nam Ô Village

Historical Site:

Temple of Lady Liễu Hạnh

Honored Deities:

Holy Mother Liễu Hạnh

Lady of the Five Elements

Also Worshiped:

Celestial Princess Chúa Tiên

(Princess Huyền Trân)

Annual Ceremony: 20th day of the 2nd lunar month

This plaque suggests that the legend of Princess Huyền Trân taking refuge in Rú Cấm Nam Ô on her flight from Champa has become a living part of Nam Ô’s spiritual culture—and by extension, a quiet legacy in Da Nang’s historical memory.

But Is Her Shrine Officially Recognized?

Unfortunately, the votive temple dedicated to Huyền Trân inside Rú Cấm Nam Ô hasn’t been officially recognized as a historical site—either at the provincial or national level. Which is a shame, considering this princess played a major role in expanding Vietnam southward. The territories of Châu Ô and Châu Lý were part of the sính lễ (bridal tribute) offered by the King of Champa to marry Princess Huyền Trân. That’s a pretty big deal, historically speaking.

“Also Worshiped”? Not Quite Fair

Now, about that inscription calling her “also worshiped” (phối thờ) under Lady Liễu Hạnh—I find that a little unfair to Princess Huyền Trân. Her contributions were significant, not secondary.

Lady Liễu Hạnh, according to legend, was born in 1557 during the reign of Emperor Lê Anh Tông. A celestial princess, she is said to have descended from heaven three times to live as a mortal woman seeking freedom and happiness. She traveled far and wide, helping people in need. Today, she’s an important figure in Vietnamese mother goddess worship, particularly in this region.

Her temple in Nam Ô is undeniably an important spiritual site, but so is the shrine to Princess Huyền Trân—especially considering the legend surrounding her escape and presence in Rú Cấm. Unfortunately, there’s still confusion in the local narrative, with some mistaking Huyền Trân’s votive shrine for Lady Liễu Hạnh shrine. It’s high time historians and cultural experts clarified this.

A Modest Proposal

In my humble opinion, the signage at the temple should be updated to reflect both figures more accurately and fairly. I’d suggest something like:

Temple of Worship

Holy Mother Liễu Hạnh AND Princess Huyền Trân

Two extraordinary women. Two powerful legends. One sacred forest still keeping watch.

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Mr. Old Man

January 2022